By Désirée Prieto of the San Antonio Current

Photo by Bryan Rindfuss of the San Antonio Current

NEW YORK CITY — The entrance to Cult Studios is hidden behind plywood and a closed-off sidewalk when I arrive at the Flower District location near New York City’s Fashion Institute of Technology. Inside, Henry De La Paz, a hairdresser originally from the Rio Grande Valley, is preparing models with weaves, curls, and Princess Leia braids and ribbons for San Antonio designer Angelina Mata’s Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection being unveiled at New York Fashion Week.

With 12 years on the ground in San Antonio, and time in L.A., London, and now New York City, De La Paz continues to work with Mata, traveling to San Antonio roughly every five weeks. “I’ve worked with her and her family for eight years,” he says proudly. The all-star cast of San Antonio artists coming together to support Mata’s new line also includes makeup artist Patrick Eichler, whose extensive career includes working with icons such as Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Zac Posen.

When I’m finally ushered into the studio, I find Mata’s Atelier vision showcased in a performance-art installation rather than the traditional runway show. While the approach is said to have been adopted by many fashion designers after 9/11 for budget constraints, it’s continued because of the way it allows an audience to study the designs more deeply. It’s a different but much more rewarding experience.

A dress made with silk organza and “enshrined underground for ten days” was arguably one of Angelina Mata Atelier’s most important pieces of the night, as Mata worked with fiber artist Laura Beehler who helped dye and weather the fabric to create what Mata’s marketing calls a unique “b(earth)ing.” The two buried the five yards of fabric wrapped around a rusty grate, embedded it with rose petals, and kept it wet, as if growing a plant. Once extracted from the ground, the silk organza was turned into a signature bespoke dress with the intention to look antiquated, and indeed it did, as the rust, rose petals, and leaves all left their mark.

Mata says that her silk organza gown, as well as the rest of her line, “translates into a concise ultramodern look with the haunt of ancient civilizations.” This may feel like a familiar trend, however by combining both modern and ancient elements — conforming the long silk organza gown to the body while also allowing it to flow off the body, for example, contributes to a blending of conservatism and progressivism.

However, this exquisite work was less accessible than Mata’s other ready-to-wear outfits, like the fitted, dark pink, off-the-shoulder chiffon dress; a cream A-line knee-length dress; or the stark-white fitted dresses outlined with green and pink. Mata’s tribute to color featured green, orange, and yellow dresses with unique patterns. One of my favorites was the purple skirt with copper belt, which appeared to have large copper medallions printed on it. Large, thick metal belts tied other dresses together as well, however as exciting as the dresses were, the talk of the night were the shoes.

Mata’s shoes were a collaborative effort; furniture artist Peter Zubiate and graphic artist Can2 assisted here, along with metal artist Jose Chapa, who also did all of the metal work for belts. Many of the models appeared to be perched on stilts as they stood on thick wooden platforms stuck to metal extensions — not your typical stiletto. The shoes created a futuristic fairy tale experience, and complemented the models’ vertically pinned thick braids. Some of the braids appeared to be spray painted, others were very pixie-fairy-esque, evoking the fresh appearance of the line. (With their hair down and undone, the models recalled the film Avatar.) In addition, jewelry designer Tracy Stephens helped execute Mata’s earrings.

Mata made it to New York Fashion Week with more than $8,000 in donations largely from the San Antonio community. A thank-you celebration for local friends and supporters is set for November 2 at Blue Star Contemporary Art Center, during which Mata will show the collection against the backdrop of departed SA artist Chuck Ramirez’ work.

Photo by Xelina Flores-Chasnoff - Special for the San Antonio Express News

By Michael Quintanilla of the San Antonio Express News

NEW YORK — As New York Fashion Week reached its crescendo, 15 designers crammed Wednesday’s fashion calendar. Among them: Norma Kamali, Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Ralph Rucci, Anna Sui and Angelina Mata.

Angelina Mata?

San Antonio’s own talent isn’t a household name yet in New York fashion circles, but the Churchill High School grad is working — and hoping — to hit the big time in the Big Apple with her spring 2012 collection. The debut was financed with “crowdfunding” or donations pledged on Kickstarter.com, a website where money is raised for artistic projects.

Unlike most designers, Mata didn’t produce a runway show. Instead, she wisely unveiled her collection of haute creativity in a Manhattan setting resembling an art installation with models in still-life poses.

Almost 100 guests, including several San Antonians living in New York, were ushered into a vast white space at Cult Studios not far from the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology.

They gasped at the breathtaking sight before them: 25 models, each uniquely exotic — African American, Scandinavian, Russian, Latino — and appearing taller than regulation supermodels because of their extreme platform footwear created by San Antonio artists Jose Chapa and Peter Zubiate.

Their hair was fantastically designed by another San Antonian, Henry de la Paz, to emphasize the variations in artistic themes or looks that Mata created during the past several months in her downtown San Antonio atelier.

One group of dresses was ultramodern and ladylike in white with bright-colored piping. Another was primitive with tribal prints and copper accessories. And yet another set of dresses was delicate and romantic with fragile fabrics in tinted shades of salmon and rose.

Mata also was tuned in to the big story for next spring with a group of dresses in eye-popping orange, fuchsia, turquoise, ochre and various prints.

However, what makes Mata unique as a designer is her innovative and imaginative play with textiles. Her tour de force was an intricate draped gown of sheer organza; she had buried the fabric with rusty barbecue grills, decomposing corn husks and flora. When unearthed, the surprising effect was beautiful.

Another gown’s bodice was simply created with two crocheted vintage doilies coated with paint that was purposely allowed to drip down the sheer pleated A-line skirt. Once dried, the dress was hammered to make it supple.

Photo by Xelina Flores-Chasnoff - Special for the San Antonio Express News

“My aunts came over to help me,” Mata recalled. “We dug fabric out of the ground. We burned it. We painted it. We hammered it. They kept asking, ‘When are we going to sew?’ ”

Mata, 43, now challenging the New York fashion establishment, already has made it in the Alamo City, where the couturier has a devoted fan base among the social set and the city’s community of artists. Her work as a bespoke designer also extends throughout Central and South Texas.

Of course, the competition in New York is fierce. This week alone, more than 200 designers vied for the attention of media and international buyers who were talent-scouting, star-spotting, blogging and tweeting in search of fashion’s next star.

It takes courage to enter the fray. Mata, who has been building her made-to-order business for 10 years, said New York was the next logical move.

But that progression isn’t just a business strategy; it’s also a growth experience for a creative artist such as the hairstylist-turned-fashion designer-turned businesswoman. And she didn’t go it alone.

For her New York debut, she had a little help from other San Antonians, including fiber artist Laura Beehler; make-up artist Patrick Eichler, who has worked with Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Zac Posen; multimedia artist and brother John Mata; and a graphic artist who goes by the catchy moniker of Can2.

“She’s on the right track,” said de la Paz about his longtime friend. “She means business by taking this to the next level. She should have done this a long time ago. She’s ready.”

Read more: http://www.mysanantonio.com/life/fashion/article/Mata-makes-her-Fashion-Week-debut-2172929.php#ixzz1Z4fEluRL

This week San Antonio is joining in on the celebration taking place in cities across the globe with its very own twist on Fashion’s Night Out.  Models & Mannequins: A Passion for Fashion 2011 is a two-night event where contemporary art and fashion will meet – first at Blue Star Contemporary Art Center and then a second night at The Shops at La Cantera.  If you want to join San Antonio’s best dressed community in two nights of supporting the local arts, then be sure to get your tickets and start deciding what to wear!

1st Night: 7-10 p.m., Wednesday, September 7th at Blue Star Contemporary Art Center

• 8 one-of-a-kind mannequin sculptures created by top contemporary artists, available for sale to support Blue Star exhibitions and education programs
• Preview of the latest fall fashions from The Shops at La Cantera
• Cocktails and light appetizers
• Music by DJ John Mata
• Complimentary valet

2nd Night: 6-9 p.m., Thursday, September 8th at The Shops at La Cantera

• 8 one-of-a-kind mannequin sculptures created by top contemporary artists, available for sale to support Blue Star exhibitions and education programs
• Blue Star Grey Goose Vodka Lounge in front of Tiffany & Co.
• Exclusive shopping incentive: Spend $150 at The Shops at La Cantera and receive a $20 gift card – for every $20 gift card distributed, The Shops at La Cantera will donate $10 back to Blue Star
• Live music from The Ten Strings

Head shot of "Trophy Wife" Mata's half deer / half woman sculpture

Angelina Mata’s sculpture “Trophy Wife” is one of 8 sculptures by top contemporary artists that will be on display and available for purchase to benefit Blue Star Contemporary Art Center and the MOSAIC Educational Programming. Other participating artists include: Waddy Armstrong, Rodolfo Choperena, Ken Little & Clare Little, Alex Rubio & MOSAIC Students, Kathy Sosa, Michael Wayne, and Louisa Wheeler.

Tickets for this two-night event are $75 per person or $50 for current Blue Star Contemporary Level Members.  Special pricing packages are available for eligible fashion design and merchandising students. Purchase tickets here.

On September 14^th Texas fashion designer Angelina Mata will unveil her Spring/Summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection during New York Fashion Week. Taking place at CVLT Studios in Manhattan, the presentation will resemble something closer to a performance art installation than a traditional runway show, with models composed into a living tableau.

Mata, a 43-year-old San Antonio native, made her name in Central Texas as a preeminent bespoke fashion designer and leader of the contemporary design scene over the last decade.  She is bringing her high end, ready-to-wear label, Angelina Mata Atelier, to New York Fashion Week for the first time this September in order to present to buyers, editors, and other enthusiasts of the global fashion community.

“The line will consist of expertly constructed pieces made from hand-dyed and painted textiles as well as metal embellishments all designed exclusively for this collection,” Mata said. Videos posted on her website reveal conceptual hints about the fabric and metal processes going into the clothes, but little about the final product.  Recently she said of the collection: “It will translate into a concise ultramodern look with the haunt of ancient civilizations.”

To conjure together this monumental collection, Mata is collaborating with several San Antonio artists including fiber artist Laura Beehler, metal artist Jose Chapa, furniture artist Peter Zubiate, multimedia artist John Mata, jewelry designer Tracy Stephens, graphic artist Cantwo, and multimedia artist Rachel Ziegler.  Also on display at the New York show will be the talent of internationally renowned make-up artist Patrick Eichler, another native San Antonian who has worked with such icons as Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Zac Posen.  Rounding out the all-star cast of San Antonian artists teaming up with Mata is high-end hair stylist Henry de la Paz, whose clientele allow him to work between New York and Texas regularly.

Sponsors of the show include Medulla Salon, Cariño NYC, CoCo Pony Chocolatier, Tim the Girl Catering, and more than 80 individual backers from Mata’s successful Kickstarter campaign. A thank-you celebration for local friends and supporters is set for November 2^nd at Blue Star Contemporary Art Center in San Antonio, during which Mata will show the collection against the backdrop of the work of her dear friend Chuck Ramirez, who died tragically last year in a bike accident.

As of 9:30 a.m. CDT today, Angelina Mata’s Kickstarter Project ended in success!   Funds raised exceeded the project goal and will be used to elevate the San Antonio native’s presence at New York Fashion Week this September 2011.   Angelina Mata is currently producing her Spring | Summer 2012 collection to be shown in the Big Apple in collaboration several San Antonian artists including:

Fiber artist Laura Beehler, metal artist Jose Chapa, furniture artist Peter Zubiate, jewelry designer Tracy Stephens, graphic artist Cantwo, multi-media artist John Mata, multi-media artist Rachel Ziegler, hair stylist Henry de la Paz, and make-up artist Patrick Eichler

This week I headed over to visit the studio of metal artist Jose Chapa, another incredibly skilled artist collaborating with Angelina Mata on her Spring | Summer 2012 collection.  Chapa is embellishing the collection with one-of-a-kind metal details and pieces that will grace everything from shoes and handbags to dresses and jewelry.  In the video below Chapa walks us through his studio and explains key elements to his creative rituals.  He describes his style as “Industrial Organic” because his work reflects elements from both the world that man and technology built as well as the natural world.

For her Spring | Summer 2012 Collection, Angelina Mata enlisted the talented fiber artist Laura Beehler to collaborate in the creation and treatment of one-of-a-kind fabrics.  In the video below San Antonio Express News Journalist Michael Quintanilla (off camera) interviews Beehler and Mata as they b(earth) a piece of silk organza that has been enshrined underground for 10 days. As it emerges from the earth, the artists unravel the fabric to reveal found objects and flower petals, buried along with the fabric.  In the end, Beehler and Mata admit that to them, the ritualistic process gives the fabric an organic spirit and sanctity.

After this evolutionary step, Mata will fashion the fabric into a gown for her collection, highlighting the unique patterns that have so delicately and fortuitously branded the silk organza.

Yesterday morning Michael Quintanilla of the San Antonio Express News brought his crew over to the Atelier.  They shot the September cover of Trends Magazine which will feature Angelina Mata and the story of her journey to New York Fashion Week. The Magazine will be available the last Friday in August as an insert into the San Antonio Express News.

In a few short weeks, the Angelina Mata Atelier Spring 2012 collection will debut at the apogee of all fashion events, New York Fashion Week.  The show will take place on September 14th, 2011 at Cult Studios NYC in Manhattan on 27th Street between 6th and 7th Avenues.

If you are interested in attending this show, you can either contact the Atelier in advance or give a donation of $20+ to our Kickstarter.